Edinburgh is often associated with medieval history, impressive scenery and the fringe festival. It’s therefore not surprising that it has been a place of inspiration for innumerable books, plays, poems, myths and legends throughout history.
Their influence is easy to see across the city. There are plaques, statues and pubs on every corner dedicated to writers such as Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Muriel Spark and many others. Edinburgh even became the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature in 2004.
As a self-professed lover of books, I knew I wanted to focus on Edinburgh’s literary history during my visit. These five locations span literature across thousands of years, from King Arthur to Sir Walter Scott to JK Rowling. It’s very easy to visit all these locations in a day, so prepare for a book-filled adventure!
The Writer’s Museum
Situated in a close in Edinburgh’s old town, the Writer’s Museum occupies three floors in a 400-year-old house. To reach it, I had to turn off the main road and down a tight staircase that opens into Makars’ Court. Fittingly, this little square pays homage to Scottish writers from the 14th Century onwards, with quotes from Scots such as James Boswell and Muriel Spark inscribed in flagstones on the floor.
The museum itself is free, and is dedicated to three of Scotland’s most eminent writers. Exhibits and displays about Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson and Rabbie Burns take up one floor each. I’ve only read probably one book by each of them, but I enjoyed learning more about these famous men. It was fascinating to realise the influence that specifically Scottish culture and environment had on all three writers, and how they’ve influenced Scotland in return since their deaths.
Greyfriar’s Kirkyard
Greyfriar’s Kirkyard also sits in the middle of Edinburgh’s Old Town. Perhaps for this reason, it’s rumoured to be one of the most haunted graveyards in the world?
To be honest, I didn’t encounter any unearthly or sinister happenings, but then it was the middle of the afternoon and the sun was shining brightly. I don’t think I would have noticed if there had been anything spooky going on, because I was on a mission to find the grave of Thomas Riddell.
I feel a little bit sorry for Thomas Riddell, Esq. I’m sure he didn’t realise when he died over 200 years ago that his name would live on to inspire fear in millions of people around the world. He of course has JK Rowling to thank for this legacy. He even has a father of the same name, just like Voldemort. Maybe there are some sinister connotations to this graveyard after all?
That’s not the end of Greyfriar’s literary connections. Also in the cemetery is the grave of William McGonagall, a notoriously bad Scottish poet whose name JK Rowling adopted for her novels. Even the churchyard itself is reputedly the inspiration behind the graveyard where Harry and Cedric end up in the fourth HP book. It’s creepily complete with the grave of the “unknowing” father and everything . . .
Scott Monument
Having visited The Writer’s Museum, I now felt like a Sir Walter Scott pro. It seemed like a fitting time to visit the monument built in his name.
Designed in the Gothic style, it’s very ornate and spindly. From the ground it was hard to believe that there was a museum inside. At 200 feet high, it’s the tallest monument dedicated to writer in the world. (At least that’s what they told me; Wikipedia disagrees!) Either way, it’s a very impressive tribute to one of Scotland’s most famous writers. In fact, Edinburgh’s main station, which sits practically in the monument’s shadow, is named Waverley after one of Scott’s books.
There are four stairways, each leading to a viewing platform that get steadily higher as you climb. The first floor has a museum about Scott’s life and the monument, and honestly the views here are already great. However, I had paid for the premium £8 ticket and was determined to climb all 287 steps to reach the very top.
As the views across Edinburgh got better and better, the staircases became more and more narrow. They are open to the environment and the wind tunnelled through, knocking me from side to side. It was with relief that I squeezed my way out onto the highest platform. From the top, I could see Edinburgh Castle silhouetted against the sun, the unfinished statues on Calton Hill, and Arthur’s Seat as a backdrop to the city.
Arthur’s Seat
There are no museums or writers’ monuments on Arthur’s Seat. Though architects contemplated building Scott Monument on its peak, I’m glad they decided against the idea. Instead, the ancient volcano juts out above Edinburgh, its rugged landscape undisturbed.
As a symbol of Scotland’s capital, Arthur’s Seat frequently crops up in Scottish books throughout history. The most exciting by far are its ties to the legend of King Arthur. According to the stories, Arthur’s Seat was once the site of Camelot and the location from where King Arthur held court. As rumour has it, this is how the volcano got its name. There are lots of other theories that are more grounded etymologically and historically, but this one is my favourite!
Bookshops
As you can probably imagine after the above, there is no shortage of cool bookshops in Edinburgh. It’s such an old city that there’s plenty of antiques and first editions around, but I also came across more modern shops as well.
I visited Golden Hare Books in Stockbridge, which had some really pretty editions of classics. I absolutely love tiny hardbacks, especially if the cover is embossed or the book is illustrated! They also have this cool initiative where they sell wrapped books with a tag telling you the vague plot and who might like it. So you can give yourself a surprise present!
I also popped into Edinburgh Books and Armchair Books. Both are in the Old Town, close to Edinburgh Castle, and focus more on antiques. Edinburgh Books has practically an entire floor dedicated to an amazing collection of sheet music, which was fun to peruse. I got waylaid again looking at tiny hardbacks (seriously, they’re so cute) in both stores, only stopping myself from buying some tiny, hardback Harry Potter books when I realised how heavy they would make my rucksack!
I hope this list serves all fellow book-lovers well as they explore Edinburgh’s literary side. Who knows, maybe you will be struck with inspiration like so many before you? I know I was.
Some other ideas for book lovers in Edinburgh:
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